Match of the week

Beef stew and oloroso sherry

Beef stew and oloroso sherry

Last week I was at the Copa Jerez, an international wine and food competition where teams pair a 3 course menu with sherry.

(I judged the UK competition last year which was won by Gail Ge’er Li and Jaichen Lu of Dinings SW3 whose pairing of braised beef tongue and oloroso sherry I wrote about here.)

The ultimate trophy this year was won by Parsley Salon of Copenhagen in Denmark who also presented an oloroso as their main course pairing.

We enjoyed oloroso a couple of other times during the three days we were in Jerez, in both cases with a beef stew. As a ‘racion’ (more substantial tapa) at Valdespino and as the main course of beef cheek at an utterly splendid dinner at Lustau where they paired it with their Colleción Almacenista Garcia Jacana Oloroso Pata Gallina which you can buy from Waitrose Cellar for £22.99 a 50cl bottle.

Most of us obviously think of drinking red with a dish like that but if there were just the two of you - and you were both sherry fans - a glass of oloroso would be the perfect accompaniment. (Many supermarkets do excellent half bottles for less than this, quite often made by Lustau. Morrisons has one for £6.50 for example)

I attended Copa Jerez as a guest of the organisers

Oxtail and oloroso

Oxtail and oloroso

As last week was Sherry Week and I’m a MASSIVE fan my match of the week clearly had to involve sherry. But which to choose? It was hard given the number of standout pairings at the sherry dinner my local tapas bar, Bar 44 in Clifton put on but I’m going for the sherry by which I was most blown away - a limited edition of Gonzalez Byass Alfonso oloroso, one of six rare casks that are being bottled by the bodega under the name ‘Vinos Finitos’ (finite wines)

According to the immensely useful blog Sherry Notes “it would traditionally have been described as an oloroso fino because of its finesse and elegance.” The flavour was actually more like an old amontillado or palo cortado to me - really beautifully delicate and almost creamy, while exhibiting that typical oloroso richness and nuttiness.

You might have thought it wouldn't have been powerful enough to stand up to the dish of slow cooked oxtail in oloroso, salt aged sirloin and salsa verde the team at Bar 44 had paired with it but it worked incredibly well, neither detracting from or overwhelming the other.

Other favourite pairings were a Dos Palmas Fino with raw red prawns and an intense shellfish sauce and Apostoles palo cortado with a cheese course of whipped Manchego and beetroot.

If you're not into sherry already do experiment with the very good value half bottles you can find in most supermarkets. Even the normal bottling of Alfonso is only around £13-14.

For further inspiration download my e-book 101 great ways to enjoy sherry.

I attended the dinner as a guest of Bar 44.

Game terrine and sweet oloroso sherry

Game terrine and sweet oloroso sherry

Last week I was given a couple of slices of gorgeous game terrine by Stephen Markwick of Culinaria with whom I’ve been writing a book (of which more news soon). We had it for lunch and the only wine I had open wasn’t up to the intensity of the spicing (which was dominated by allspice) and the accompanying damson chutney.

It occurred to me to try a sherry though I wasn’t sure if it would work given that it was a sweet oloroso (a Taste the Difference Cream Sherry from Sainsbury’s) but it was spot on.

I don’t think that means you should always go for cream sherry - a more anglicised style such as Harvey’s Bristol Cream for example would be too sweet but the Taste The Difference range which is made by Lustau always has great balancing acidity) You could also try a glass of Madeira.

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